Accessories: Shoes, Umbrellas, Pocket Square, Watches, Pens, Pocket Knives and Money Clips

Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months.

-- Oscar Wilde

Shoes-- Shoes are the subject of much debate in the sartorial world, but I will leave most of that debate for you to discover on your own. The important thing to know is that people are often judged by their shoes. It is often said that when worn with nice shoes, even a cheap suit will look expensive. It was eventually revealed that the doormen at Studio 54 had used shoes as a primary determinant in deciding who was let into the club and who was turned away. There is a reason for that. Shoes reveal more about you than you might think.

I recommend that you get nice shoes. They don't have to be expensive, but they should at least be made of leather. Higher quality shoes typically will also have leather, rather than rubber soles. Shoes made of shell cordovan (a particular kind of horsehide from the hind quarters of the horse) are especially high in quality, and after years of wear will eventually take on a wavy, rather than creased, appearance. Black, burgundy and brown are all appropriate colors, although black is considered the most formal. Black cap toes are the ultimate business or funeral shoe. Consider wingtips or perforated cap toes for a little extra dash of style, but you generally shouldn't wear them with a tuxedo or to a job interview.

Keep your shoes in good shape. This is probably more important than the quality. Use a brush or piece of cloth to rub the polish onto the shoes and use a horsehair shoe brush or another piece of cloth to buff the polish to a high shine.

Like suits, shoes today are often glued together. This means that most of today's shoes are meant to be replaced, not repaired. A nice pair of shoes, however, will be stitched together, and with a few repairs they should last for a lifetime. Those on a tight budget will be able to find very nice shoes available on eBay in many styles, sizes and colors. Generally speaking, the older the shoes the better the construction will be. Stay away from fashionable houses like Prada and Ferragamo unless you want to pay for the name. Instead, look for traditional shoe making companies such as Allen Edmonds, which in addition to making shoes in the US, will also recraft used AE shoes to a virtually brand new state for a reasonable fee.

Ties-- You probably shouldn't wear a tie every day, but you also probably shouldn't rule them out all together. Extremely wide or narrow ties will look a bit dated, so they are probably best avoided. The tie should be tied (typically with a Four-In-Hand or Half Windsor Knot) so that the its widest part reaches the top of your belt. Ties with solid patterns, diagonal stripes, or polka dots are most versatile. Wear ties printed with dogs playing poker, Spider-man or the Beatles at your own risk.

Pocket Squares-- A suit without a pocket square was once referred to as a "naked" suit, and traditionally men would never leave the house without one. The color of the pocket square should complement the color of the shirt, suit or tie, but should never match the tie perfectly. Worn too flamboyantly pocket squares might convey a touch of dandyism or foppishness, but worn discreetly, they can convey a touch of class, sophistication or attention to detail.

Pocket squares can be folded so that a straight edge emerges slightly from the pocket (the TV fold), so that one or more peaks emerge from the pocket (the peak fold), or merely stuffed into the pocket with a puff of fabric emerging (the puff). The first two folds work best with linen squares, while all three folds are appropriate for silk squares. Pocket squares are also useful, should you decide to perform the coin trick taught in this book.

Watches-- A man with class should probably have a nice watch. Again, it doesn't have to be an expensive watch, but should ideally be made of metal, not plastic. Wearing a plastic Timex digital watch with an Oxxford houndstooth suit is like serving a Martini in a red plastic cup, which I also do not recommend. The tradition of a man passing his watch down to his son or grandson is rarely practiced these days. So, why not start it up again?

Pens-- A good pen, and by good I mean not plastic, can be a nice and stylish touch.

Pocket Knives-- Likewise, a pocket knife. Men used to use these for everything from opening the mail to slicing apples, so I'm not sure how we're surviving without them.

Money Clips-- Whether you carry your wallet in your back pocket or breast pocket, it shouldn't be any thicker than necessary. Carrying your cash in a money clip in the front pants pocket can significantly reduce the thickness of the wallet. If you carry your driver's license and a credit card along with a couple of bills, you may not even need to carry a wallet.

Umbrellas-- If you carry an umbrella, it may as well be a sturdy "cane style" one. When not opened, you should carry the umbrella, not by the handle, but by the center. The handle should rest along the inside of your forearm, with your index finger should extending toward the tip of the umbrella. Carried in this way, the umbrella is merely an extension of your arm so you needn't worry about poking anyone accidentally. However, if confronted by thieves, pickpockets or assassins, the umbrella is in the proper grip for either forward or backward jabs. (Don't swing the umbrella like a bat, it will crumple in half, but rather, jab with the tip or the handle.)