Used Suits: Some Brands Worth Knowing

I've never really had a desire to do Shakespeare. For me, it's just too many lines.

- Daniel Craig


A little discussion on brands may be appropriate here. The first thing to understand is that haute couture fashion houses, such as Dolce & Gabbanna, Gucci, Versaci, Prada, Calvin Klein, Yves Saint Lauren and Hugo Boss, are not known for their suits. These companies place an emphasis on fashion forward designs, but very little emphasis on quality or construction. In other words, an Armani Collezioni suit retailing for $2,500 may be no be higher in quality (or even lower) than a $500 suit from an average suitmaker. The difference is in the name, and that is a very expensive difference. It costs a lot of money to talk George Clooney into wearing an Armani suit on the cover of GQ or an Armani tux to the Oscars. That cost is passed on to the consumers who are willing to pay increased prices to be associated with such a high name label. It's basic economics; the price doesn't indicate quality.

Below is a limited list of some major players in the suit industry that you will probably want to keep an eye out for while looking for good deals on eBay. I feel that these brands represent the highest value to dollar ratio and are relatively easy to find great bargains on while browsing eBay. Personally, I think it's great that these used suits (many are in excellent condition; some worn less than 3 or 4 times) are given new opportunities to be worn. There is no need to throw out a beautifully constructed suit made of lovely fabric after just a few wearings. Buying vintage is a noble cause.

Brooks Brothers- This is the quintissential American suitmaking company. The highest line, Golden Fleece, are canvassed. Suits with lables reading Makers, 1818, Brooksgate, the old 346 labels, or simply, Brooks Brothers, are also high in quality. Brooksease, Brookstretch, and the new 346 labels are outlet brands and probably best avoided. Avoid the new fashion forward Black Fleece line by Thom Brown unless you like getting fleeced. This company produced suits for John F Kennedy.

Burberry- Look for the old "Burberrys" line with the blue and silver label depicting the horse. Those suits were made by Hickey Freeman, and are decent suits.

Christian Dior- Look for the old stuff made by Hart Shaffner Marx. It will have both names on the label.

Corbin - A now largely defunct American suitmaking company that made high quality, classically American suits. The products of the new Corbin company are lower in quality.

Hart Shaffner Marx- Very good suits from a very good old American company. Gold Trumpeter was their high end, also Gold, and Monogram. This company produced the old Christian Dior suits, and makes the Tommy Hilfiger suits. This is the company that makes the suits of President Barack Obama.

Hickey Freeman- Great suits from the USA. Now owned by Hart-Marx and known to make in addition to their own line, the old Burberrys' line (blue and silver tag with horse).

Oxxford- From Chicago, these suits are of the highest quality and generally considered the best made to measure suits available on earth.

Ralph Lauren- Purple label being the highest and a plethora of lower versions such as silver label, green label, Polo, Chaps and Polo University Club. Silver and Purple are pretty expensive. Chaps and Polo University aren't very high quality. But Ralph Lauren Polo is a quality brand worth watching for.

Savile Row- This is the row of legendary bespoke suit makers in London. It is not a brand, but a useful term to know.