“The hardest job kids face today is learning good manners without seeing any.”--Fred Astaire
So, you've decided that wearing a suit is the thing for you. But where to buy them and how much should they cost? Here you have several options, some very affordable and others, barely. Remember most suits are purchased and worn only for weddings and funerals. This means you can buy a used suit that has been worn six times or less for less than 5% of the original price tag. My goal is to buy the highest end suits ($1,500+) for less than the cost of a pair of new slacks at Target ($50).
First, it's worthwhile to understand the difference between fashion and style. Fashion has seasons. Fashions come and go. Being fashionable is expensive and it looks trendy. Fashion has historically been the providence of women, but since the 1970's men have been a target market, too. You'll want to avoid that and work with the style classics which rarely change, even over the course of decades. Historically, it has been the role of men to provide a stylish backdrop to female fashion.
Be sure to also steer clear of suits that aren't 100% natural fibers. Wool, cotton, silk, alpaca, mohair and linen are good. Polyester, micro fibers and dacron aren't. Polyester linings are okay. Polyester suits, are not. Wool is the original miracle fiber.
Bespoke-- This is most desirable and most expensive route to having a suit made. These suits are hand cut and sewn by experienced tailors to your exact measurements and specifications. The name is derived from the British tailors who used the expression to indicate that a particular bolt of fabric had "been spoken for." A hand cut suit from a great tailor in Paris might start around 1,500 Euros. Savile Row in London is legendary for its reputable and expensive suit makers. But don't despair. There are other great options.
Made to Measure (MTM)-- This is somewhere in between custom made and off-the-rack. Typically, a sales rep will take your measurements (or you can take them yourself and enter them online) and then a computer program will design a suit based on those measurements. The cloth is then cut (often by a computer programed laser) and assembled. The benefits of MTM, other than the custom fit, are the options the purchaser can select such as functional cuff buttons, decorative linings, ticket pockets, pick stitching, etc. Currently the price of MTM in many places is coming down, while the price of quality off the rack suits is increasing. In some instances, MTM can be purchased below the cost of a comparable off the rack suit.
Used and Vintage--All things considered, this is probably the best option. Suits in conditions ranging from "like new" to "gently used" can be easily obtained. Vintage suits offer some of the most interesting fabrics and cuts--but keep an eye on the composition label. 100% wool is what you're looking for (or maybe a wool blend as long as the blend is silk/cashmere/alpaca/mohair and not polyester/dacron/microfiber/viracle/etc. Think of the 70's as the low point in suits. The farther away from the 70's you go (in either direction) the better off you probably are. Expect to pay $20-$100 for a great suit in a vintage or thrift store.
Ebay-- eBay will provide a much larger selection than a vintage shop, but the drawback is that you can't try the suits on before purchasing. By using search tools, though, you can eliminate all suits that don't meet your specific measurements. If quality vintage stores are not available, this is a very good option. But be advised, using eBay successfully requires significant knowledge regarding brand qualities, measurements and counterfeits and will be the subject of a future post. Good suits here range from $20-$100. (Though, I have gotten a fantastic suit for as little as $4.99)
Off the Rack (OTR)-- Also known as ready to wear (RTW), a decent suit from a decent store will run about $500, while great suits run about $1,000. But 50% off sales are common, so you can generally find a $500 suit for $250, or a $1,000 suit for $500. Suits from department stores such as Wal-mart or Target are likely made of artificial blends and with poor construction techniques. Worse yet, they'll look like the same cheap suit that everyone else is wearing. Avoid these. $250-$500+ for a good suit off the rack.
In any case, you'll want to know a good tailor. At the moment, mine is located in the 15th arrondisement of Paris and known to me only as The Turk. He's seven feet tall if he's an inch, and speaks as much English as I speak French--un peu. For a few bucks, a good tailor can see to it that your suit and shirts fit as well as they should. No matter how good the fit, a good tailor can usually make it better. Getting a good fit is half the battle.
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